Introduction To The Basics Of Backyard Composting
at
Back in the days when I was a little kid, my grandparents used to make their own compost in a big plastic barrel in their yard. Trash went in and months later soil came out. For me it was like magic. My grandad considered himself to be the wizard of ‘Black Gold’. Which I, of course, believed.
Years later, I found out my granddad was a good storyteller and that composting actually is Mother Nature’s magical way of recycling. It is a natural process in which microorganisms break down organic waste into a soil amendment that is packed with beneficial nutrients; from your garbage to a treat for your garden!
What Is Composting?
Compost is the key to organic gardening, both indoor and -outdoor. It is an easy and inexpensive way to recycle food scraps and yard waste, so your amount of trash will be reduced. It regulates the soil acidity and it improves the soil structure. Next to that it has a lot of environmental benefits. But above all it is fun and very satisfying to make your own homegrown - and organic - fertilizer.There are loads of methods of compost-making. You can make it as easy or complicated as you want. The simplest method is ‘cold composting’, also referred to as "slow composting". As the name suggests, this takes time. You just let nature do its job and after about a year you will have compost. You can speed up the process as well, in that case we’re talking about "hot" or "fast composting". You’ll have compost within a few weeks, but it takes a lot more effort and time. This method requires more space and materials. And you also got to learn more about temperature, humidity, aeration, soil microbes and so on. In this blog, we are going for the golden mean, we will focus on the basics for composting outdoor. In case you don’t have the luxury of a yard, but still want to give composting a try, indoor composting might be what you’re looking for. You can read all ins & outs of indoor composting and learn how to create your own worm compost bin in this blog.
What Do You Need To Get Started?
You can use a container to speed up the process, but you don’t need it. You can build a bin or cage from pallets, (chicken) wire, stones, tyres etc. Let your creativity run wild! Compost heaps - in a container or not - should be about 1x1m to be effective.Don’t put it in an area where rainwater collects. When you have a container that can be closed, you can put it on a sunny spot. When you have an open pile or a container that doesn’t close, it is better to put it in the shade, to prevent it from drying out.
To get started, you need a good foundation, there are several options. One is to start with browns on the bottom and build a layer of about 10-20 cm. from twigs and small branches. This will absorb moisture from the pile and keep things well-aerated (read: it’s not going to smell like the swamp). Another option is to sprinkle a bit of finished compost on the bottom.
The Building Blocks Of Compost: Greens & Browns
Initially, I presumed that I could simply put all garden & food waste on the compost pile, take it easy, right? WRONG! There are some rules you should bear in mind, but don’t panic, composting is not rocket science.Technically spoken, all organic matter, all that once was living is good to put on the pile. There are two essential elements to make it work: carbon-rich ingredients (browns) and nitrogen-rich (greens) ingredients. The micronutrients that are responsible for breaking down your compost pile, prefer a balanced diet of Nitrogen and Carbon.
You’ll have to master the art of getting the right carbon-nitrogen ratio. In general, it should be moist, but not soggy. Not too wet and not too dry. When it is too wet, microorganisms don’t have enough oxygen.
Some tips: Add greens in thin layers, not piles, this way all the material is in contact with the browns. Put some browns on the outside, this will prevent unwanted aromas and helps to prevent rain from soaking into the pile and moisture from evaporating out of the pile.
Too much nitrogen means that the ratio is lower than ideal, the pile will be slimy and stinky. When the ratio is higher than ideal, there is too much carbon and the pile will be dry and decomposes very slow. The optimum ratio is roughly 25/30 part Carbon to 1 part Nitrogen. This way the heap stays odor-free. Below you find an overview of the browns & greens.
You should bear in mind that not all browns have the same Carbon value and likewise, the Nitrogen values of the greens are not equal either. In this blog, we’re not going into detail, but here you can find more specific information about the values of certain browns and greens.
Quick Fixes When You Bump Into Problems
When the ratio is not ideal, the microbes will not be happy and they will let you know. Below you can find an overview of problems you might encounter and how you can solve it.The compost pile…
- is too hot and wet: heat is good, but not too much (max. 60 °C). Let oxygen in and aerate it by turning it or when that is not possible, make holes with a stick. Another option is to add more browns.
- is too hot: water it to cool down (shouldn’t be too wet!) or add browns.
- smells bad: it lacks oxygen, aerate it by turning it or when that is not possible, make holes with a stick. Another option is to add more browns (like sawdust) or put it in the sun to dry.
- is too dry: add greens or water it.
- is too wet: add browns or put it in the sun to dry.
- still looks the same as months ago: when nothing happens, it’s probably too dry, add greens, worms or microorganisms.
No Go’s And Remarks
The little workers in your pile operate best when the pH is neutral. pH is a scale of acidity, it tells how acidic or alkaline a substance is. There are some substances that can affect the pH; Citrus peels, pine needles and oak leaves for example, are acidic and they will lower the pH. Alkaline substances, like ashes, will raise the pH. You can add it, but do so moderately. After a BBQ it might be tempting to empty the charcoal on the compost pile, don’t do it, it’s too acidic. Pure wood fire ashes can be added, but in moderation.You can add weeds, but make sure they have not seeded yet or they will thrive on your pile. same goes for sawdust, you can add it, but only from untreated wood.
There are some things that you can better leave out. Fish and meat for example stink and they are a magnet for flies and animals. The same goes for fat and oils, they also slow down the composting process. Manure from carnivorous animals is a no go as well, as they can carry parasites.
Those tiny stickers on fruit and veggies look insignificant, but it is actually a nightmare for micronutrients. Glossy coated or colored paper will not decompose, its toxicity will negatively affect microorganisms’ activity and plant health. Of course, there exist biodegradable stickers, but it’s better to play safe and remove them. The same goes for coffee & tea bags, they might be synthetic.
When Is It Ready?
Composting takes time, a lot of time. So, relax and be patient. When the pile start to change into a soil-like substance, it still takes another 6 months to a year for it to mature. When your compost is ready to use, you should not see any of the things you’ve put in there. Like an earthysmelling, rich, dark soil with a fine structure, that’s a little crumbly. Yeah… black gold! Now you can mix the compost with your soil. Don’t plant right away! It still needs 2-4 weeks to stabilize, after that you can sow and grow.If this is your first-time composting, just keep it simple. Of course, you can run to the store for fancy compost products, but you can perfectly go without that, go 100% organic. Get the feel of your pile by adjusting the greens & browns. Experiment a bit, get that "fingerspitzengefühl". No need to stress out, because in the end compost just happens; you simply let it rot ;)